e-4_small.jpg (2964 bytes)   Walking 3dtext_K.gif (10316 bytes) 2003  mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes)

The Hopes and Fears of

Stelios Jackson

Arriving

The Pre-walk

The Walk

wcj.gif (1005324 bytes) In loving memory of William (Bill) Watson Jackson (1910-2002). If men from Aberdeen, are created from hard granite, then here was a man who proved, that from there too come men with hearts of pure gold. He shall be sorely missed by all of his grandchildren, Alison, Alasdair, Richard and I as well as his great-grand-daughter, Sophia (pictured with WWJ). I dedicate this page and the walk to him and his everlasting memory.     Stelios Jackson

Contact: Mobile +44 077 203 29 323 E-mail

Foreword

mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes)  I have used various links to sites on this page most of which are run by friends and represent the very best of Cretan knowledge and technology. I have even plagarised a bit, but have done my upmost to qualify and credit these sources, where due. This is a private page which only friends of mine are privy to, but I must still give my thanks to the following sites which are all excellent and have been used to some extent on this page; cast your browser upon the gifs and open up  whole new windows of possibilities:

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             Plus the Chania Mountaineering Club ;   ATHANATI (to whom I owe the gif. of walking...), to Malcolm Stoddart, from whom I learned it is a far better thing to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy, though the two are not necessarily mutually exclusive!; to Maraki Mou with whom I have drunk and said "goodbye to all that" with (K); to all other friends, especially those met through that great Cretan portal "Interkriti" who have had to put up with me posting and pouting for the past two years and have been my inspiration: (Lala; Adam; Ray and Lynn; Al. "The (ocassionally) Flying Kiwi"; Tom and Jane who have made their dreams come true; my trading partner Stuart, a rare old bean!; my ol' red Jan; JohnS who I confuse more than most or is it just that he admits it?; my ol' Dutch Yiannakis; my Bonnie and adopted sister o'er the ocean Maria; her spirited mother and aformentioned "Athanati"; Mpomp, who makes me smile; Stelios F; Erno; Jean; Tim; Roger; Julie F and Judy, both kindred spirits; Paul; Sam; Marianne; Chris from Calgary;   Jacqueline; Gea; the fabulous writings of both Alexandra and Lars (Kriti stin Kardia tous) for their very special stories; Loreto the lone-starred-ranger, Wolfgang and Alexander for their fantastic pictures; Niki for her tea, sympathy and Birkenstocks; Frank; the inimitable Dinos-Siteia; Yannis S and many others); to my sister Alison, her mad husband Ian and my beautiful God-daughter and niece, Sophia  and last, but not least, to Rex, for being the best friend that a man can have and for putting up with me moving in mysterious ways! Ta leme, Paidia! SJ

Arriving

The Pre-walk

The Walk

Introduction

mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes) Hello there! As I am sure you know if you are reading this, I shall be attempting to walk from Kato Zakros in the East of Crete, to Kastelli in the North-West, this year. The plan is taking shape nicely and now includes three weeks of acclimatisation, before I set off. The acclimatisation is also a thinly-veiled excuse, ultimately enabling me to do both the "Alpine" and "Coastal" parts of the E4.

Just south of Argyroupolis, in the foothills of the western-most fringe of the nomos of Rethymnon, the coastal and alpine paths cross at Velonado/Nissiani, and my intention is to walk both of these routes. The first part, taking in the coastal path, I will call "the pre-walk" and that part will hopefully get me into some sort of shape to enable me do the walk itself. Full descriptions of both walks appear below; and that, lady or gentleman, is my best-laid-plan.

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Everything underlined is hyperlinked to something or other

e4.gif (38853 bytes) This icon indicates walks that are actually on the E4 trail, as some of the walks I shall be doing, are not.

bus.gif (3538 bytes)Days I shall be busing. This icon connects to the individual bus service of the particular nomos (area) that I'll be leaving from starting from Heraklion to Rethymnon.

dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes) Dopey will take you back to the top of the page, but he is also there to indicate my lazy days, of which there'll be quite a few!

beaten.jpg (2094332 bytes)  Some of these walks are detailed in books, of which I have five different ones. The icons to the left are the books and the numbers in brackets are are the page numbers for that particular walk. I have also used abbreviations as the two of the guides have a remarkably similar appearance to two other ones; OK so not so surprising in the case of the Landscape guides:

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CBT =

"Crete Off The Beaten Track".

LWC =

"Landscapes of Western Crete".

                   RCW =

"Crete, West." Rother Walking Guide"

CWM =

"Crete: The White Mountains".

LEC =

"Landscapes of Eastern Crete".

Arriving

mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes) Well, this should be pretty straightfoward and a lot of fun. I arrive in Herakleion sometime on Tuesday afternoon  (29th of April) and spend the night in the big-smoke, which will give me the opportunity to see a city that I haven't stayed in since 1989 and doing such things as visiting the archaeological museum. (That's one of the big problems of avoiding places, there are aspects that you suddenly realise you are in desperate need of, so I shall enjoy this brief stay in Herakleion)H. Then it's off to Rethymnon, a place where I feel entirely at home for a couple of days; the last chance to get seriously blistered before becoming...er...seriously blistered, as it were! Hopefully the weather will be good to me as I then intend to head almost directly up to the hills and meander around the Argyroupolis area for further couple of days, before I head off into those there mountains.

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Date

Map of Nomos

Spending Night

Doing

Activity:mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes)

Description

Wed Apr the 30th and Thu May the first

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Rethymnon

bus.gif (3538 bytes)Arriving from Herakleion. Wandering for a couple of days H

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Not a lot

Wandering around Rethymnon

Fri May 2nd

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Argyroupolis

bus.gif (3538 bytes)Busing and exploring

rother.jpg (1860484 bytes) RCW(48)

I reckon on a walk to Moundros, but haven't decided yet.

Bus up to Argyroupolis There are a number of options here. I shall try to discover this area if I get here early enough. I have heard many good things about Argyroupolis and environs, but have never visited this area, south of Episkopi. A good look at the village will take place during today. A walk to Asi Gonia, down to Moundros, Nisiana  etc, will be decided on once I am ensconced.

The pre-walk.

dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes)

mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes) The pre-walk is designed to: a) see what I a made of (sugar and spice I suspect!) and b) as a bridge to completing the E4 route. On the walk itself, I shall be following the E4 almost along its entirety, (or at least the route that runs through the centre of the island in the Heraklion stage of the walk), following it all the way through to Kissamos. I shall be following the "Alpine" trail through from Askyphou to Omalos, so I thought it would be a good idea to start this odyssey by following the E4 coastal walk as a means of acclimatisation. That means that I shall be walking South and then West from the mountain village of Argyroupolis, via Rodakino, Frankokastello, Chora Sphakion, Loutro and Aghia Roumelli, before tackling the difficult walk from there, to Soughia. On the walk itself, I shall ultimately be walking West from Argyroupolis, via Askyfou and Omalos and onwards down the Aghia Irini gorge, ending up at the same place as the previous coastal walk, i.e. Soughia.,

Date

Map of Nomos

Spending Night & Route

Activity mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes)

Description

Sat May 3rd

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Kato   Rodakino

e4.gif (38853 bytes)Walking from  Argyroupolis to Kato Rodakino

Well, this is the beginning. The idea here is to connect the two parts of the E4, by walking the coastal route, in the same direction as I will later be walking the Alpine walk. Spidery thing that E4 route.

Sun May the 4th and Mon  May 5th

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Kato Rodakino, Argoules, Skarloti, Franlokastello, Kalokasia, Nomikiana, Voouvas, Vraskas, Komitatades

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Chora Spahakion

e4.gif (38853 bytes)Walking from  Kato Rodakino   to Chora Sphakion via Frankokastello, where I have the choice of spending the night or saving this little luxury of an extra day, until I get to Loutro, a place that I adore.

Walking West to Chora Sphakion. Unfortunately Erno will not be there, so I will have to entertain myself!

Easy peasy, lemon squeezy...or at least it should be, though rumour has it that the distance between Rodakino and Chora Sphakion is 27 KMs, so I may split it up by staying at Frankokastello; then again I may not.

Tue May 6th

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There is absolutely nothing along the coastal path, except a couple of beaches.

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Loutro

e4.gif (38853 bytes)Walking from Chora Sphakion  to Loutro If I don't stay at Frankokastello and instead walk straight to Chora Sfakion from Kato Rodakino, I shall have an extra day to rest-up here.

beaten.jpg (2094332 bytes) CBT(71)

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Below, is the walk from  Loutro to Frakokastello. Remember I am going to stay at Chora Sphakion, so it'll be broken up and the chances are I will be staying at Kato Rodakino and  Frankokastello, but I may miss out on the pleasures of staying at the latter.. Still, this should be easy peasy and if it isn't I am in big trouble.

DISTANCE: 19.5 ??

ESTIMATED TIME: 6.5 hours

BEST SEASON: All year

CHALLENGES:minimal

Wed May 7th

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Phoenix, Aghios Pavlos

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Aghia Roumeli

e4.gif (38853 bytes) Heading West and on to Aghia Roumeli

rother.jpg (1860484 bytes) RCW(72)

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Walking West to Aghia Roumeli, which is of course where the Samarian gorge ends, so I may well book accommodation here.

To Aghia Roumelli

Reverse this: From Agia Roumeli hike the path along the coast to chapel Ag. Pavlos (3,5 km), Marmara - exit of the Aradena canyon (6,5 km), Loutro (3 km - from Ag. Roumeli: 13 km-5 hours; Visit and lodging).

DISTANCE: 13 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 4.5 hours
BEST SEASON: All year round, mainly September through May
CHALLENGES: None
WARNING: Additional drinking water is necessary.

Thu May 8th

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Tarra, Mavri, Tripti, Pikoilassos, Keratida.

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Soughia

e4.gif (38853 bytes)Walking

Nasty one this, the walk between Aghia Roumeli and Soughia

Described by Loraine Wilson as a "D" walk, which is among the most difficult (only mountain treks get the toughest classification - an "E"), so this will seperate me from the men!

The route of Sougia to Agia Roumeli, where the Gorge of Samaria exits, opened recently and is marked. From Sougia to Pikilassos-Tripiti (7,5 km), exit of the canyon (1 km), Domata 5 km, exit of the canyon (3 km), Agia Roumeli 6 km - from Sougia: 20 km-8 to 9 hours; visit - and lodging; connection with ferry to Loutro and Chora Sfakia).

Soughia to Aghia Roumelli

DISTANCE: 20 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 8-9 hours
BEST SEASON: April through September
CHALLENGES: One of the most tiring and difficult routes in Crete.
WARNING: Additional drinking water is necessary.

Fri May 9th

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Chania

bus.gif (3538 bytes) dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes)Busing to Chania and congratulating myself on what a big brave Hector I am for completing the coastal walk. I ain't seen nothing yet! Bus from Soughia to Chania

Sat May 10th

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Chania

dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes)A tad less than yesterday! H Meet some peeps

Sun May 11th

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Siteia

bus.gif (3538 bytes) dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes)A visit to Siteia archaeological museum today is a MUST! Bus or boat it from Aghios Nikolaos to Siteia

Mon May 12th

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bus.gif (3538 bytes), straight down the valley of the dead

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Kato Zakros

bus.gif (3538 bytes)to Ano Zakros, possibly via the site at Palekastro, and walk down the e4.gif (38853 bytes)Valley of the Dead Gorge/ Zakros archaeological site

beaten.jpg (2094332 bytes) CBT

A nice relaxing day, with an easy gorge and a bit of general wandering. There may have to be a bit of figure fiddling, date- wise, if I am to fit-in all my plans for this wonderful stretch of coastline.
Tue May 13th

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Straight up the Valley of the dead!

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Ano Zakros

e4.gif (38853 bytes)Walking followed by a nice, relaxed evening in Ano (upper) Zakros

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No problems here. An easy gorge and hopefully a visit to the archaeological site at Kato Zakros.

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The Walk

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mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes)    Right, if I manage to survive the pre-walk, surely I am doomed on the walk itself, am I not? "Fat, smoking, unfit, boozy, Scottish-Greek, 40 year old, attempts to cross Crete on foot!" I have decided to follow the E4 all the way from Kato Zakros to Kissamos and not to follow "in the footsteps of", Christopher Thorne, author of "Between the Seas." This decision was "upon reflection" (and a third reading of that book), I decided that it was far too tough a task to traverse all of the mountain ranges in 2 weeks, so I have cut down his 400 mile walk in two weeks to a far more managable 250 miles in three weeks, with three "do-nothing" days, sandwiched in the middle (Archanes, Spili and Paleochora.

No accommodation shall be booked in advance, with the possible exception of Chandras, as the information below is just my best laid plan and until I am on-hoof, I will not know exactly where I am likely to end up. Some of the walks below are a bit ambitious and others are perhaps a bit short, so this is just a crib and is not written in stone, but I would like to get to Spili for the 28th of May.dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes)

 

Date

Map of Nomos

Spending Night & Route

Activity mamajackson.jpg (2366 bytes)

Description

Wed May 14th

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Hametoulo, Limnioni, Ziros.

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Chandras

Walking from Ano Zakros  to Chandras.

The Muniucipality of Lefki

 

Thu May 15th

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Papagianades, Vori, Kato Kria, Dafni.

Pic To Follow.

Chrisopigi

e4.gif (38853 bytes) Walking from Chandras to Chrisopigi.Via Papaghianides, kato Kria and Daphne; the latter of which may be the place to stay overnight, depending on what I can find on accommodation details for the two places. Can't see much of a problem here, other than exactly where to lay my head that night; all looks pretty straightforward This is the walk from Selakano to Chandras, that I shall be doing in reverse over the next four days (Chandras - Chrisopigi - Vasiliki - Prina - Selakano)

Reverse the following:

From the Alm Salakani to Prina (18 KMs-5stds-high 550m), Masseleri (3.5 Kms), Vassiliki (15.5 Kms-high 100m, deepest position of the hike), crossing the road which runs between Aghios Nikolaos and Ierapetra, to Monesteraki, again, climbimbing the slopes of Mount Thripti (high 880ms- 5 KMs 2 and a half hours), further at the slopes of the mountain to Orino (high 650ms - 6.5Kms, Papagiannides (9Kms) Chandras 4 Kms

I am surprised by the distance below, though it may well be correct, due to the wibbly wobbly nature of the "E4"

DISTANCE: 23.5 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 7.5 hours
BEST SEASON: All year
CHALLENGES: Practically none

Fri    May    16th

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Lapithos, Poutsoulas, Oreino, Thripti, Monistiraki.

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Vasiliki

 e4.gif (38853 bytes) From Chrisopigi to Vasiliki. Through the Thripti range, taking in: Lapithos, Oreino, Thripti and Monastaraki, running parallel with the "Ha" gorge. Same as above; the main problem is going to be where to stay, though as this walk is through the Thripti range, it will probably be hard going at times. Monastiraki may be an option to stay. Chrisopigi to Vasiliki
DISTANCE:

23.5 ??

ESTIMATED TIME:

27 hours Surely shome mishtake!

BEST SEASON: All year
CHALLENGES: Practically none
Sat May 17th and Sun May 18th jeanwest.jpg (24894 bytes)

Asari, Meseleroi, Vraharaki Korifi, Prina, Giannou Korifi, Hoirokoumado, Mathokotsana.

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Selakano

 e4.gif (38853 bytes) From Vasiliki to Selakano. This is a long one and is via Prines. The length of this is the problem, but it is necessary to cut down the length of the next day's walk. Vasiliki to Aghios Georghios shall be 54 kilometres in three days. I may stay in Males instead of Selakano. Almost certainly I shall break this walk from Vassiliki to Selakano into two, stopping-off at Prina (Prines) for the night.  From there I continue to Selakano. The chart below is from Vassiliki to Prines.
DISTANCE: 19 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 5.5 hours
BEST SEASON: All year
CHALLENGES: None
Mon May 19th jeanwest.jpg (24894 bytes)

West of Mt Dikti (2148 M), Koudoumalia.

Aghios Georghios

e4.gif (38853 bytes)  From Males to Aghios Georghios. Back on the E4 and after a mainly westerly trek, I turn sharply North, through the Dikti range. Cutting through Dikti, with mountains around peaking at 2,147m, should be an exhilarating, but tough experience. The chart below is Selakano to Aghios Georghios. However I estimate the walk that I am taking, namely Males to Aghios Georghios to be around 27 KM.
DISTANCE: 17 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 6 hours
BEST SEASON: Spring through Autumn
CHALLENGES: No particular difficulties
Tue May 20th thumbnail

Psychro, Aghios Haralambos, Kato Matohi, Toichos, Kastamonitsa, Xidas, Politeia.

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Kastelli

e4.gif (38853 bytes)  From Aghios Georghios to Kastelli

  beaten.jpg (2094332 bytes) CBT(111)

Passing the famous Psyrcho cave (current archaeological thinking is that this is not the "Diktean cave" and that is in fact at Palekastro), to Ag Georgios' west (the southern side of the Lasithi plateau), then heading north to the Aghia Fotini cave and then west again to Kastelli, via Toichos and Litos

The chart is from Aghios Gorghios to Katsamonitsa. However, my walk will be slightly longer than this, ending at Kastelli, a further 3 KMs west of Katsamonitsa
DISTANCE: 15 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 4.5 hours
BEST SEASON: All year
CHALLENGES: Relatively easy
Wed May 21st thumbnail Sklavenochori, Apostoli, Sambas, Moni Angaratho, Kato Astraki, Ano Astraki, Mirtia, Kato Archanes.

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Archanes

e4.gif (38853 bytes) From Kastelli to Archanes

West by North/West/by South/West!!

This may be a very long one, the E4, veritably snakes it's way to Archanes

To Ano Archanes

Add an extra 9KMs to this, as the chart only takes in the part from the monastary of Angarathou to Archanes, though it does start at Katsomanitsa and I shall be starting a good 3KMS west of there, so I suspect around 23KMs

DISTANCE: 17 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 5 hours
BEST SEASON: All year
CHALLENGES: None
Thu May 22rd thumbnail phourni.jpg (30942 bytes)

Archanes

dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes)A day off from walking, though the archaeological sites here are widespread and I intend to visit them all, including the anemospili (windy cave), - where proof of human sacrifice was discovered - not that there is much to see there, thankfully. Archanes Archeological  site

Archanes was reportedly the "summer palace" of Knossos, during "Minoan" times though as Aghia Triadha has now been discounted as an equivalent to Phaistos, the archaeology of Crete is in a state of constant and necessary flux.

Fri May 23rd thumbnail

Pouka, Profitis Ilias, Kiparissos, Pirgos, Sinapi, Moni Palianis, Kerasia, Kato Anistes.

Pic to Follow

Ano Asites

e4.gif (38853 bytes) From Archanes to Ano Asites.

West by South West

Finding somewhere to stay could be a big problem again.

Way hay, if I haven't found a chart which mirrors the walk!

Archanes to Ano Anistes

DISTANCE: 25 ??
ESTIMATED TIME: 7 hours
BEST SEASON: All year
CHALLENGES: Easy
Sat May 24th thumbnail

Prinos, Diplari, Nida

Pic to Follow

Ideion Andron

From Ano Asites to Ideion Andron.

Clambering times these. Again I haven't the foggiest where to stay.

The plan for today's walk is to follow the E4 trail and stay at Ideion Andron, (where exactly, by Zeus? I haven't the foggiest!), just below Timeios Stavros and head for Fourfouras tommorow.

Well, this is high on a hill with a lonely goatherd! The previous day's walk, today's and tomorrow's are probably the toughest three day period on the trip, not least as the accommodation options are somewhat obscure. These are the days that I shall look back on - hopefully - and remember longingly. I am looking forward to arriving at Fourfaras tomorrow however.
Sun May 25th thumbnail

Psiloritis. There is nothing else up here except a couple of huts and a chapel atop Mt Ida where Kazantzakis claims to have lost his virginity!

Pic to Follow

Fourfouras

e4.gif (38853 bytes) From Ideion Andron to Fourfouras

 beaten.jpg (2094332 bytes) CBT(104)

 rother.jpg (1860484 bytes) RCW(130)

les_12.jpg (4060 bytes) LWC(126)

West, under Mount Ida

Fourfouras is a place I like and know, so let's hope I get there in one piece

To Fourfouras

Reverse this:

From Fourfouras the way to the refuge of EOS of Rethymnon at the south slopes of Psiloritis to high 1400m. The refuge is not always open. From Fourfouras to the refuge, the hike lasts 3 and a half to four hours and the difference in altitude is approximately 1000m.

From here the way leads North through rocky land to the summit of Psiloritis (which I have no intention of climbing, having been up there three times)

Mon May 26th and Tue May thumbnail

Vizari, Lampiotes, Opsigias, Amari, Elines, Prines, Geraki, Mavro Mouri, Kissos.

Amari and then on to Spili

 e4.gif (38853 bytes)  From Fourfouras to Spili

I shall probably split this up into two days with a stay in Armani, if I have the time. This is highly dependent on whether I  have  managed to keep to the best laid plan.

Straightfoward walk this, though I will be glad to get to Spili where a few bevvies shall be drunk.

Seems a long walk according to Cretetravel.com. I can't believe that it's 13 hours and of course I have no intention of climbing Kedros, which is considerably South of Gerakari. I reckon on about five hours from Fourfouras to Spili, though an overnight stop-off at Amari is a possibility that I am taking more and more seriously. If I have the inclination and will-power to get to Spili directly, there will be a mini-holiday of three nights spent there.

Fourfouras to Spili. Reverse this:

From Spili take the path southeast by the route to Kissos, approximately 1 km after the village near the monastery where it bends north-east and then east to the summit of Mt Kedros (1776 m). From there the path to Gerakari (from Spili 18,5 km - 8 hours). Only Coffee shops. 

From Gerakari to the villages Elenes, Amari, Opsijas, Lambiotes, Visari to Fourfouras. Rooms, Motels, shops. From Gerakari 5 hours.

Wed May 28th and Thu May 29th thumbnail

None

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Spili

 dopeytop.gif (6189 bytes) I may be walking from Amari on this day, but whatever I decide, I want the Thursday to be a dopey day.

Thursday: A Spili hotel to a Spili taverna, possibly via the Venetian fountain if I have the energy. The European cup final is being fought-out the previous night.

Hangover. Walk to the lobby of the hotel, if there is no lift

If I have walked directly from Fourfouras I will be here on Tuesday night and this will be a two day break, if not, whch seems increasingly likely, the original plan of a dopey day, still applies. The route from the hotel that I hope to stay at in Spili, to the Venetian fountain, is approximately 100 metres, this will be tough!
Fri May 30th and Sat May 31st thumbnail

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The route for the next three days from Spili to Ammoudari:

Dariviana, Mixorrouma, Ano Mixorouma, Koxare, Angouseliana, Palaioloutro, Karandales, Nisiana, Zouridi,  Argyropouli, Asi Gonia, Kallikratis, Asfendos, Akones, Helaro, Petres...

Don't Know

 e4.gif (38853 bytes) I have three full days to get to Ammoudari, from Spili and I am just going to wing it during this period. One of the advantages of my "arrival" period, is that I will get up to Argyrpopouli and wander around. That will give me a better idea of what I wish to do over these two days, though I would like to be as close to, or preferably in Asi Gonia by Saturday night
Sun June 1st thumbnail

The route for today and the previous two days, has been described above.

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Ammoudari

e4.gif (38853 bytes) Head West middle-aged man

Much like the walk from Archanes to Foufouras, a few days ago, this period is tough. I need a very good night's sleep tonight, as if my best-laid plan comes off, I will be sleeeping in a hut tomorrow and if it doesn't...I am in dead shtuk!

Reverse this

From Askifou:  The route separates here again. The alpine part proceeds: Patzianos (2,5 km), Kallikratis, Asi Gonia, Argiroupoli. Entire (27 km), 9 hours.

And so, into the white mountains

Mon June 2nd thumbnail

There is nothing up here except three huts, of which I am staying in the middle one.

Pic to Follow

Katsaveli

 e4.gif (38853 bytes) From Ammoudari to Katsiveli hut.