The
Walk
Right, if I manage to survive the pre-walk, surely I am doomed on the walk itself, am I
not? "Fat, smoking, unfit, boozy, Scottish-Greek, 40 year old, attempts to cross
Crete on foot!" I have decided to follow the E4 all the way from Kato Zakros to
Kissamos and not to follow "in the footsteps of", Christopher Thorne, author of
"Between the Seas." This decision was "upon reflection" (and a third
reading of that book), I decided that it was far too tough a task to traverse all of the
mountain ranges in 2 weeks, so I have cut down his 400 mile walk in two weeks to a far
more managable 250 miles in three weeks, with three "do-nothing" days,
sandwiched in the middle (Archanes, Spili and Paleochora.
No accommodation shall be booked
in advance, with the possible exception of Chandras, as the information below is just my
best laid plan and until I am on-hoof, I will not know exactly where I am likely to end
up. Some of the walks below are a bit ambitious and others are perhaps a bit short, so
this is just a crib and is not written in stone, but I would like to get to Spili for the
28th of May.
Date |
Map of Nomos |
Spending Night & Route |
Activity |
Description |
Wed May 14th |
|
Hametoulo, Limnioni, Ziros.
Chandras |
Walking from Ano Zakros to Chandras. |
The
Muniucipality of Lefki |
Thu May 15th |
|
Papagianades, Vori, Kato Kria, Dafni.
Pic To Follow.
Chrisopigi |
 Walking from Chandras to Chrisopigi.Via
Papaghianides, kato Kria and Daphne; the latter of which may be the place to stay
overnight, depending on what I can find on accommodation details for the two places. Can't see much of a problem here, other than exactly where to lay my head
that night; all looks pretty straightforward |
This is the walk from
Selakano to Chandras, that I shall be doing in reverse over the next four days (Chandras -
Chrisopigi - Vasiliki - Prina - Selakano) Reverse
the following:
From the Alm Salakani to Prina (18 KMs-5stds-high 550m),
Masseleri (3.5 Kms), Vassiliki (15.5 Kms-high 100m, deepest position of the hike),
crossing the road which runs between Aghios Nikolaos and Ierapetra, to Monesteraki, again,
climbimbing the slopes of Mount Thripti (high 880ms- 5 KMs 2 and a half hours), further at
the slopes of the mountain to Orino (high 650ms - 6.5Kms, Papagiannides (9Kms) Chandras 4
Kms
I am surprised by the distance below, though it may well
be correct, due to the wibbly wobbly nature of the "E4"
| DISTANCE: |
23.5
?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME: |
7.5
hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
All
year |
| CHALLENGES: |
Practically none |
|
Fri
May 16th |
|
Lapithos,
Poutsoulas, Oreino, Thripti, Monistiraki.
Vasiliki |
From Chrisopigi to
Vasiliki. Through the Thripti range, taking in: Lapithos,
Oreino, Thripti and Monastaraki, running parallel with the "Ha" gorge. Same as above; the main problem is going to be where to stay, though as
this walk is through the Thripti range, it will probably be hard going at times.
Monastiraki may be an option to stay. |
Chrisopigi to
Vasiliki
| DISTANCE:
|
23.5 ?? |
| ESTIMATED
TIME: |
27 hours Surely
shome mishtake! |
| BEST
SEASON: |
All year |
| CHALLENGES:
|
Practically none |
|
| Sat May 17th and Sun May 18th |
|
Asari, Meseleroi, Vraharaki Korifi, Prina, Giannou Korifi, Hoirokoumado, Mathokotsana.
Selakano |
From Vasiliki to
Selakano. This is a long one and is via Prines. The length of this is the problem, but it is necessary to cut down the
length of the next day's walk. Vasiliki to Aghios Georghios shall be 54 kilometres in
three days. I may stay in Males instead of Selakano. |
Almost certainly
I shall break this walk from Vassiliki to Selakano into two, stopping-off at Prina
(Prines) for the night. From there I continue to Selakano. The chart below is from
Vassiliki to Prines.
| DISTANCE: |
19
?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME: |
5.5
hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
All
year |
| CHALLENGES: |
None |
|
| Mon May 19th |
|
West
of Mt Dikti (2148 M), Koudoumalia.
Aghios Georghios |
From Males to
Aghios Georghios. Back on the E4 and after a mainly westerly
trek, I turn sharply North, through the Dikti range. Cutting
through Dikti, with mountains around peaking at 2,147m, should be an exhilarating, but
tough experience. |
The chart below
is Selakano to Aghios Georghios. However I estimate the walk that I am taking, namely
Males to Aghios Georghios to be around 27 KM.
| DISTANCE: |
17
?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME: |
6
hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
Spring
through Autumn |
| CHALLENGES: |
No
particular difficulties |
|
| Tue May 20th |
 |
Psychro, Aghios
Haralambos, Kato Matohi, Toichos, Kastamonitsa, Xidas, Politeia.
Kastelli |
From Aghios Georghios
to Kastelli 
CBT(111)
Passing the famous Psyrcho cave (current archaeological thinking is that this is not
the "Diktean cave" and that is in fact at Palekastro), to Ag Georgios' west (the
southern side of the Lasithi plateau), then heading north to the Aghia Fotini cave and
then west again to Kastelli, via Toichos and Litos
|
The chart is from
Aghios Gorghios to Katsamonitsa. However, my walk will be slightly longer than this,
ending at Kastelli, a further 3 KMs west of Katsamonitsa
| DISTANCE: |
15 ?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME:
|
4.5 hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
All year |
| CHALLENGES: |
Relatively easy |
|
| Wed May 21st |
|
Sklavenochori,
Apostoli, Sambas, Moni Angaratho, Kato Astraki, Ano Astraki, Mirtia, Kato Archanes.
Archanes |
From Kastelli to Archanes West by
North/West/by South/West!!
This
may be a very long one, the E4, veritably snakes it's way to Archanes |
To
Ano Archanes
Add an extra 9KMs to
this, as the chart only takes in the part from the monastary of Angarathou to Archanes,
though it does start at Katsomanitsa and I shall be starting a good 3KMS west of there,
so I suspect around 23KMs
| DISTANCE: |
17 ?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME: |
5 hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
All year |
| CHALLENGES: |
None |
|
| Thu May 22rd |
|
Archanes |
A day off from
walking, though the archaeological sites here are widespread and I intend to visit them
all, including the anemospili (windy cave),
- where proof of human sacrifice was discovered - not that there is much to see there,
thankfully. |
Archanes
Archeological site Archanes was reportedly the
"summer palace" of Knossos, during "Minoan" times though as Aghia
Triadha has now been discounted as an equivalent to Phaistos, the archaeology of Crete is
in a state of constant and necessary flux. |
| Fri May 23rd |
|
Pouka, Profitis Ilias,
Kiparissos, Pirgos, Sinapi, Moni Palianis, Kerasia, Kato Anistes.
Pic to Follow
Ano Asites |
From Archanes
to Ano Asites. West by South West
Finding somewhere to stay could be a big problem again. |
Way hay, if I haven't
found a chart which mirrors the walk! Archanes to Ano
Anistes
| DISTANCE: |
25 ?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME:
|
7 hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
All year |
| CHALLENGES: |
Easy |
|
| Sat May 24th |
|
Prinos, Diplari, Nida
Pic to Follow
Ideion Andron |
From Ano Asites to Ideion
Andron. Clambering times
these. Again I haven't the foggiest where to stay.
The plan for today's walk is to follow the E4 trail and stay at Ideion Andron, (where
exactly, by Zeus? I haven't the foggiest!), just below Timeios Stavros and head for
Fourfouras tommorow. |
Well, this is high on a hill
with a lonely goatherd! The previous day's walk, today's and tomorrow's are probably the
toughest three day period on the trip, not least as the accommodation options are somewhat
obscure. These are the days that I shall look back on - hopefully - and remember
longingly. I am looking forward to arriving at Fourfaras
tomorrow however. |
| Sun May 25th |
|
Psiloritis. There is nothing
else up here except a couple of huts and a chapel atop Mt Ida
where Kazantzakis claims to have lost his virginity!
Pic to Follow
Fourfouras |
From Ideion Andron to
Fourfouras CBT(104)
 RCW(130)
 LWC(126)
West, under Mount Ida
Fourfouras is a place I like and know, so let's hope I get there in one piece |
To Fourfouras Reverse this:
From
Fourfouras the way to the refuge of EOS of Rethymnon at the south slopes of Psiloritis to
high 1400m. The refuge is not always open. From Fourfouras to the refuge, the hike lasts 3
and a half to four hours and the difference in altitude is approximately 1000m.
From
here the way leads North through rocky land to the summit of Psiloritis (which I have no
intention of climbing, having been up there three times) |
| Mon May 26th and Tue May |
|
Vizari, Lampiotes,
Opsigias, Amari, Elines, Prines, Geraki, Mavro Mouri, Kissos.
Amari
and then on to Spili |
From Fourfouras to Spili I shall probably split this up
into two days with a stay in Armani, if I have the time. This is
highly dependent on whether I have managed to keep to the best laid plan.
Straightfoward
walk this, though I will be glad to get to Spili where a few bevvies shall be drunk.
Seems a long walk according to Cretetravel.com. I can't believe that it's 13 hours and
of course I have no intention of climbing Kedros,
which is considerably South of Gerakari. I reckon on about five hours from Fourfouras to
Spili, though an overnight stop-off at Amari is a possibility that I am taking more and
more seriously. If I have the inclination and will-power to get to Spili directly, there
will be a mini-holiday of three nights spent there. |
Fourfouras to Spili.
Reverse this: From Spili take the path southeast by the route to
Kissos, approximately 1 km after the village near the monastery where it bends north-east
and then east to the summit of Mt Kedros (1776 m). From there the path to Gerakari (from
Spili 18,5 km - 8 hours). Only Coffee shops.
From Gerakari to the villages Elenes, Amari, Opsijas, Lambiotes,
Visari to Fourfouras. Rooms, Motels, shops. From Gerakari 5 hours. |
| Wed May 28th and Thu May 29th |
|
None
Spili |
I may be
walking from Amari on this day, but whatever I decide, I want the Thursday to be a dopey
day. Thursday: A Spili
hotel to a Spili taverna, possibly via the Venetian fountain if I have the energy. The
European cup final is being fought-out the previous night.
Hangover. Walk to the lobby of the hotel, if there is no lift |
If I have walked
directly from Fourfouras I will be here on Tuesday night and this will be a two day break,
if not, whch seems increasingly likely, the original plan of a dopey day, still applies.
The route from the hotel that I hope to stay at in Spili, to the Venetian fountain, is
approximately 100 metres, this will be tough! |
| Fri May 30th and Sat May 31st |
|
The route for
the next three days from Spili to Ammoudari: Dariviana, Mixorrouma, Ano Mixorouma, Koxare, Angouseliana,
Palaioloutro, Karandales, Nisiana, Zouridi, Argyropouli, Asi Gonia, Kallikratis,
Asfendos, Akones, Helaro, Petres...
Don't Know |
I have three full days to get
to Ammoudari, from Spili and I am just going to wing it during this period. |
One of the advantages of my
"arrival" period, is that I will get up to Argyrpopouli and wander around. That
will give me a better idea of what I wish to do over these two days, though I would like
to be as close to, or preferably in Asi Gonia by Saturday night |
| Sun June 1st |
|
The route for today and the
previous two days, has been described above.
Ammoudari |
Head West middle-aged man Much like the walk from
Archanes to Foufouras, a few days ago, this period is tough. I need a very good night's
sleep tonight, as if my best-laid plan comes off, I will be sleeeping in a hut tomorrow
and if it doesn't...I am in dead shtuk! |
Reverse this
From Askifou: The route separates here again. The alpine part
proceeds: Patzianos (2,5 km), Kallikratis, Asi Gonia, Argiroupoli. Entire (27 km), 9
hours.
And so, into
the white mountains |
| Mon June 2nd |
|
There is nothing up
here except three huts, of which I am staying in the middle one.
Pic to Follow
Katsaveli |
From Ammoudari to Katsiveli
hut. CBT (49..)
Getting the key for the Katsivelli is going to be a real problem. It is kept in the EOS at Chania and of course I
would have left Chania almost four weekspreviously. Need to look into this deeply. My latest idea is to
try to walk the whole of this walk in a day, giving me a "recovery day" in
Omalos. Water would be a big problem. |
"This is a small and picturesque
mountain shelter. It is situated in the center of the White Mountains. To get to the
shelter, you need about 6 hours of hiking from the KALLERGI shelter or about 7 hours from
the KSILOSKALO. There is an alternative route, from the village of ANOPOLI in the Sfakia
area, which takes about 6 hours. It is possible to go faster if you use the mountainous
rural roads, which demand only 3 hours of hiking." Askifou
to Omalos
The
next two days shall be this, in reverse:
LENGTH
OF WAY:35 km
DIFFICULTY
OF WAY:Very difficult. Mountaineering in altitude without trees.
Require
increased quantity of water
Melidaou
peak - Svourixti refuge : 4,30’ hours Svourihti refuge - Tavri refuge : 7 hours Tavri refuge - Askifou : 1.15’ hours |
| Tue June 3rd |
|
Kallergi hut,
Xyloskala, Gonia.
Pic to Follow
Omalos |
From Katsiveli hut to Omalos. CBT (49..)
RCW(116)
West, by
west-west until Kallergi, then west from there. Kallergi to Omalos is 1.45 hours so times
on the right can be cut-down accordingly.
Another
monster walk and this is the part that I shall be regretting having spent an extra day in
Spili rather than at Ammoudari, though if I can do the whole walk in a day (Ammoudari to
Omalos), then I will have an extra day in Omalos. |
Again in reverse: TOTAL TIME: Omalos -
Kallergi refuge : 2,45’
hours Kallergi refuge - Melidaou peak : 3,30’ hours |
| Wed June 4th |
|
Aghios
Theodoroi, Epanohoro, Ighia Irini gorge, Moni.
Soughia |
Omalos to Soughia. RCW(70)
LWC(86)
Down the Aghia Irini Gorge, which starts a few KMs west of Omalos.
Should be
pretty straightforward this, but it is well worth remembering that downhill walks can be
as exhasuting as up hill ones |
TOTAL TIME: Sougia - Ag.Irini gorge – ?malos : 8 hours Probably more
beautiful, particularly at this time of year, and less crowded than the longer Samaria
Gorge, the Irini Gorge is a great walk, ending at the beautiful seaside village of
Soughia. The walk is sometimes steep (down) and there is a little scrambling and climbing
to be done, but generally this is a pleasant and moderate walk. At this time of year it is
possible that footwear will need to be removed in order to ford the stream that flows down
the gorge.At the end of the gorge (7km) there is now a very pleasant taverna, a good
watering and resting place before the less spectacular finish to the walk, the final
4km into Soughia.
|
| Thu June 5th |
|
Lissos, Pydaraki.
Pic
to Follow
Paleohora |
Soughia to Paleohora. CBT(84)
Along the coastal path from Soughia to Paleohora.
Can't see
this being much of an ordeal, if I have already survived the previous few days. I like
Paleahora a lot so it will be a treat to get here and eat at the excellent vege restaurant
called "To Trito Mati" |
Sougia - Paleochora 6 hours
| DISTANCE:
|
14.5 ?? |
ESTIMATED
TIME: |
6 hours |
BEST
SEASON: |
Spring through
Autumn |
CHALLENGES: |
No particular
difficulties |
WARNING: |
Additional
drinking water is necessary |
|
| Fri June 6th |
|
None
Pic to Follow
Paleohora |
A do nothing day |
Tipota |
| Sat June 7th |
|
Kondoura, Aghios
Ioannis,
Pic to Follow
Elafonissi |
Paleohora to Elafonissi. RCW(66)
LWC(90)
Along the coastal path from Paleohora to Elafonissi
Not looking
forward to this part; I can't be having with Elafonissi, so I will not be thrilled skinny
to arrive there |
The following is
the E4 trail between Chrisoskalitissa and Paleohora
| DISTANCE: |
22
?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME: |
7
hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
Spring
through Autumn |
| CHALLENGES: |
No
particular difficulties |
| WARNING: |
Additional
drinking water is necessary |
|
| Sun June 8th |
|
Chrissoskalitissa,
Stomio Felisiana, Kefali, Papadiana, Keramoti, Kampos, Berbathiana, Ano Sfinari.
Sfinari |
Elafonissi to Sfinari Up to Kefalli, where I
shall try to have lunch, if any of the tavernas there have anything for vegetarians, which
they didn't when I was there for a week in 2001! |
Elafonissi to
Sfinari The Following is the E4 trail to
Chrissoskalitissa, just as a frame of reference:
| DISTANCE:
|
32 ?? |
| ESTIMATED
TIME: |
8 hours |
| BEST
SEASON: |
Spring through Autumn |
| CHALLENGES: |
None |
|
| Mon June 9th |
|
Platanos, Kavoussi,
Kerefiliana, Piperiana.
Pic to Follow
Falassarna |
Sfinari to Falassarna and on to Kissamos |
This is from Sfinari
to Kissamos.
| DISTANCE: |
22,5 ?? |
| ESTIMATED TIME: |
6,30 hours |
| BEST SEASON: |
Spring and Autumn |
|
|
In loving memory of William (Bill) Watson Jackson (1910-2002). If men from Aberdeen, are
created from hard granite, then here was a man who proved, that from there too come men
with hearts of pure gold. He shall be sorely missed by all of his grandchildren, Alison,
Alasdair, Richard and I as well as his great-grand-daughter, Sophia (pictured with WWJ). I
dedicate this page and the walk to him and his everlasting memory.
Stelios Jackson
Days I shall be busing. This icon connects to
the individual bus service of the particular nomos (area) that I'll be leaving from
starting from Heraklion to Rethymnon.
Chania
where I have accommodation booked for a week, with Freelance Holidays and from there onto
Athens and home on the 19th of June.
