DODECANESE
Compiled by Markos Stephanou and Stelios Jackson for the Hellenic Bookservice, 91, Fortess Road, London. If you have any queries or suggestions or wish to add your link, please contact Stelios All the linked books featured on this page can be ordered securely on-line by clicking on the title or picture where one exists. Our inventory of books, replete with currency converter can be found by clicking on the little orange thingy below:
Click on an Island in the map below
Weather: What's it doing on Karpathos, Rhodes or Kos Thanks to Yahoo
The Dodecanese are geographically, the closest of the island groups to the Turkish mainland. This proximity of the "auld enemy" can occasionally give rise to some tension among the locals especially on islands such as Kastellorizo, which is only stone -chucking distance away. However, the locals do cross to Kas on the Turkish mainland to get their hair cut.
E-mail Faith Warn: Bitter Sea: The Real Story of Greek Sponge Diving ; GRETRA 8vo pp114 inc b/w full page photos; "Most women grabbed a black shawl to wear as they ran to meet the homecoming boats. While the traders were counting sponges, the wives and mothers of Kalymnos were desperately counting faces... Some went down to the harbour dressed entirely in black, just in case." A terrific little book detailing the lives (and deaths) of those with a perilous occupation written by a woman who has, for the past 5 years, lived among the sponge diving community of Kalymnos. An amazingly priced book of interest to anthropologists, travellers to the Dodecanese group of islands and anybody interested in the dangers of the sea. Wonderful stuff and amazing value. S.J
The Blue Guide to Rhodes and the Dodecanese by Robin Barber The Blue guides tend to deal with the historical side in more detail than any of the other mainstream guides and this one is no exception. However, a great deal of effort has gone into making this guide more useful for the traveller who might have only a slight interest in the historical side, making this Blue guide a viable alternative to other more general guide books. SJ
Greek Island Hopping by Frewin Poffley. New edition Feb 2002. I used this book for the first time in March 1998, having always believed in the past that its uses would be limited. What a pleasant surprise I was in for. This is a terrific book, not only for the ways and means of getting between islands and mainland ports but as a guide book in its own right. Particularly good for freelance travellers, hopping the Cyclades or Dodecanese. SJ
The Dodecanese by Dana Facaros et al This is the book for you if you don't plan to stray off the Dodecanese. A shortened version of the book on the Greek Island just covering this group. A really nice book to island hop with.
Dodecanese Islands. A 64 page, pictorial guide to all of the Dodecanese islands
The Greek Islands: Guide to the Byzantine and medieval buildings and their art, by Paul Hetherington. This will appear on all the island pages as it a) covers every group and b) it is excellent. There are omissions but that is to be expected and this is an essential read for anybody interested in the Byzantine period and the Orthodox church. Detailed descriptions of over 300 locations of medieval buildings, especially monasteries, found on 47 Greek islands. A wonderful book. SJ
Flora and Fauna
books can be found by clicking on the triffid
It looks and feels Cycladic and is as close to the eastern Cyclades as the western Dodecanese but nevertheless Astypalaia is a Dodecanesean island. This is the quintessential one-village island (if you don't include the little resort of Meltezana) but what a village. One of the prettiest such Hora in the group with a Venetian castle up top. Many people stay in the port of Skala or the oasis-hamlet of Livadia, one bay west of Hora. Beautiful views can be obtained by those brave enough to climb above the island's capital Skala to the castle. Some fine early Christian mosaics, wonderful honey and a waterfall in the far west complete the picture. While very popular with Greeks, Astypalaia has yet to make any inroads into the foreign tourist trade; a recommendation in its own right you might think. General books to the Dodecanese:Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable Stelios Museum: Astypalaia Archaeological Museum Sites:Armenochori: Mycenaean cemetery Sites:Vathy, Ancient Tower and Prehistoric Settlement Chalki (pronounced, and quite often spelt, Halki) A tiny limestone speck west of Rhodes, like many of the big isle's infertile satellites, Halki used to make its living from seafaring generally and sponge diving in particular. Halki boasts some excellent tavernas and you can take excursions to the castle and abandoned village at Horio. There is a smattering of pebbly beaches around the coast but the best ones are only accessible by excursion boat. UNESCO declared this island the 'isle of peace and friendship' in 1983 and I'd highly recommend it as a retreat from the hustle and bustle of Rhodes. There is really no mass tourism but this can be a mixed blessing especially in high season as there is not a great deal of accommodation either. If you fancy staying here for a week or two, Laskarina www.laskarina.co.uk has some typically splendid accommodation here. Books: Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable. Stelios Museum:
Holiday company: Laskarina come here www.laskarina.co.uk General books to the Dodecanese
No crusader castles for you here, I'm afraid, but plenty for the independent traveller especially in the foothills. It lies between Crete (with which its music shares some characteristics) and Rhodes and can be reached from either. It is a rugged, rather poorly cultivated island with excellent beaches at Lefkos (west) and all along the east coast with good hiking in the far north where trails are being marked or rehabilitated. There are no real picture-postcard worthy villages except in the north where you can find the "open-air anthropological museum" of Olymbos, with its spectacular ridge-top setting, pastel painted houses and women in traditional dress. Much of this is as genuine as a Masai boma laid on for safari goers, but stay the night and you'll get a different picture. The port town capital has become slightly pricey of late as has Ammopi beach nearby and you may find it preferable to base your holiday round Lefkos or the far north. If you're planning to stay for some time a sturdy vehicle is a must, as the roads are poor and public transport virtually non-existent. Weather in Karpathos thanks to Yahoo's site.Holiday company: Freelance Holidays more normally associated with Crete, come here. www.freelance-holidays.co.uk
Sites: Arkassa: Ancient AcropolisVrykounta, Ancient City and Necropolis
General books to the Dodecanese
Faith Warn: Bitter Sea: The Real Story of Greek Sponge Diving ; GRETRA 8vo pp114 inc b/w full page photos; "Most women grabbed a black shawl to wear as they ran to meet the homecoming boats. While the traders were counting sponges, the wives and mothers of Kalymnos were desperately counting faces... Some went down to the harbour dressed entirely in black, just in case." A terrific little book detailing the lives (and deaths) of those with a perilous occupation written by a woman who has, for the past 5 years, lived among the sponge diving community of Kalymnos. An amazingly priced book of interest to anthropologists, travellers to the Dodecanese group of islands and anybody interested in the dangers of the sea. Wonderful stuff S.J.
Karpathos and Kassos: A folklore Paradise. An 111 page pictorial guide book to the isle of Kos. This is published in Greece and will consequently be cheaper on the island, but if you are anything like me, you will want to buy this before you go
General books to the Dodecanese
Map: Map of Karpathos and Kassos 1-60,000. The best map of the island, published "with the cooperation of the Hellenic Army Geographical Service"
Catapulted to international fame since its role as the location for the Oscar-winning Italian film 'Mediterraneo' in 1990,Kastellorizo is now a favoured target for independent travellers, not just Italians but romantics of all persuasions, willing to forego a total lack of beaches for the - literally - film-set port and an intimate - or claustrophobic, depending on your point of view - social scale. There are some nice walks inland and to a few coves which, while beachless, furnish wonderful swimming with lots of fish. Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable. Stelios General books to the Dodecanese Museum: Kastellorizo Archaeological Museum Site:
The land of Hippocrates and Asklepios, the cos lettuce and a thriving tourist trade in its own right. A large island with its own airport and enough nice beaches and good archaeological sites to spend a two-week holiday on. There are shoreline hot springs to frolic in; a tall mountain (Dikeos) to climb from Zia village nestling amid a respectable pine and juniper forest. The capital and port, Kos, has some fine Italian art-deco buildings and the modern annex is a planned garden suburb of the 1930's. Kos is quite often used as a stepping-stone for package tourists going to other islands, and is a good base from which to explore islands like Leros, Kalymnos etc. Weather in Kos thanks to Yahoo's site. Books: General books to the Dodecanese
Kos: The Island of Hippocrates. An 127 page pictorial guide book to the isle of Kos. This is published in Greece and will consequently be cheaper on the island, but if you are anything like me, you will want to buy this before you go
Walks in Western Kos By Lance Chilton This 20 page pamphlet has plenty of walks for you to enjoy. Written by an expert in such things, it is a bit dear, but is worth every penny.
Map Map of Kos 1-60,000. The best map of the island, published "with the cooperation of the Hellenic Army Geographical Service"
Agios Stephanos, Early Christian Basilicas Area of Limenas and the Ancient Agora
LINK: An excellent site on the island of Leros, press it and see: LEROS.ORG
General books to the Dodecanese Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable. Stelios Sites:
Holiday company Laskarina come here www.laskarina.co.uk
Patmos by Davaras . A guide available on the island, though the Hellenic stock it too. Some pictures, some text and a small map. Order this Book Patmos: Treasures of the Monastery by A Kominis . This is a beautiful book, lavishly illustrated with colour photographs. It comes in it's own sturdy slip-case and is a must for anybody deeply interested in the theological side of the island which cannot be overstated. Sites:Castelli: Hellenistic fortification Monestary: Monastery of Agios Ioannis Theologos
Link:
A nice site to the island of Patmos can be found here
Map Map of Rhodes 1-100,000. The best map of the island, published "with the cooperation of the Hellenic Army Geographical Service"
Museums: Aquarium of Rhodes Decorative Arts Museum of Rhodes Ialyssos Kameiros Palace of the Grand Magister Rhodes Archaeological Museum Sites: Agios Ioannis: ancient cemetery CemeteryKorakonero :Graves and Open-Air Sanctuary Symi (Simi) One of the most beautiful harbours of any of the Greek islands, so get that camera ready as the ferry rounds the bay. Symi supplied sponges to the Ottoman Empire and was immune from taxes because of it. As a consequence, many Symites became wealthy and the architecture of Symi town, though a little run down in parts, bears testimony to this. Known as the Hydra of the Dodecanese, due to its achingly picturesque port, which has passengers desperately searching for their cameras as the ferry rounds the point of Yialos bay. The port is split into two; Yialos being the bottom part and Horio the upper part reached by climbing the 87 million (or so) steps through the centre of town. Stopping, do catch your breath and buy herbs from Mrs Maria - if you're travelling with Laskarina be prepared for some great stories involving this particular lady - finally reaching the top where there is an absolutely lovely bar with views out to sea run by a charming Greek couple. For those unwilling or unable to go these lengths for a drink, Andrew and Tricia recommend any of the bars at the bottom of the stairs and have a certain fondness for the Vapori bar. Symi does not boast particularly great beaches, but if you follow the harbour round to its east passing the town beach, there is a very decent, albeit small, beach about half-a-mile out. The day trippers, of which you may well be one, come in their hundreds but we would definitely recommend a stay as would Andrew who got engaged to his lovely wife Trish here while holidaying with Laskarina holidays www.laskarina.co.uk
Link This is an excellent site to the island of Symi
NOT AVAILABLE FROM US UNFORTUNATELY An OUT OF PRINT book is Bus Stop Symi by William Travis. Should you come across a copy grab it. Try www.abebooks.com though they are always too expensive for us to resell, you may find a copy for yourself as these are not that rare, just unorderable. We do occasionally get these, so it may be worth ringing us on 020 7267 9499
Just in case you are looking for a copy, this is what it looks like, so you'll recognise it. It was first published by "Rapp and Whitting" but the second edition is far more common and was published by "The Readers Union". I hope this info helps you trace a copy as it is a very good read indeed.SJ
Symi- Sentinel of the Greek Archipelago A nice pictorial book 77 pages covering the history and current features of this beautiful island
General books to the Dodecanese
Museums: Symi Archaeological MuseumSymi Municipal Nautical Folklore Museum Sites: Tilos Another lovely little island which is the remotest (with the exception of Kastellorizo) and possibly the most idyllic of the Dodecanese entirely deserving at least a week's stay. There are seven (count 'em) castles of the crusader knights, several fine beaches (many accessible only by walking - a prime activity here) enough water for farming (no longer pursued except at Eristos with its citrus) but curiously a dirth of trees. Add two hilltop villages (one, Mikro Horio, abandoned, but one suspects not for long) and an intriguingly sited monastery and you have all the ingredients of success among a growing cognoscenti. Most of them stay at Livadia, the main port but not a real village, and many are members of the group know as 'Friends of Tilos' (FOTA) which agitates for some sort of preservation ethic in the face of some islanders' ambition to bulldoze and build over every flat inch of the place plus some hillside! Newspaper reports from Rhodes claim that FOTA are trying to force locals to take a step back in time, go and see for yourself. You won't remain neutral. General books to the Dodecanese Map of Tilos: Baz Ward produces a map for FOTA infinitely better than the usual suspects. Sites:
LINK Brian and Val's Tilos pages. This a great site with far more to it than just photos. My kind'a site, though not exactly my sort of music....they don't call me Baching for nothing ;-) SJ |