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DODECANESE

Compiled by Markos Stephanou and Stelios Jackson for the Hellenic Bookservice, 91, Fortess Road, London.  If you have any queries or suggestions or wish to add your link, please contact Stelios

All the linked books featured on this page can be ordered securely on-line by clicking on the title or picture where one exists. Our inventory of books, replete with currency converter can be found by clicking on the little orange thingy below:

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Columbus' Alternative


The archaeological site of Lindos on Rhodes extends outside and around the Acropolis:  Coutesy of the Greek Ministry for Culture

    Click on an Island in the map below

 

Yahoo Weather

Weather: What's it doing on Karpathos, Rhodes or Kos Thanks to Yahoo

The Dodecanese are geographically, the closest of the island groups to the Turkish mainland. This proximity of the "auld enemy" can occasionally give rise to some tension among the locals especially on islands such as Kastellorizo, which is only stone -chucking distance away. However, the locals do cross to Kas on the Turkish mainland to get their hair cut.

Holiday companies: "Laskarina" go to Halki, Symi, Tilos, Kalymnos, Leros, and Lipsi. Laskarina


"Freelance Holidays" go to Karpathos Freelance

Alternative Accomodation:Andrew was recently in contact with Mike Constantinou at Greece Accomodation Direct (well last year in fact) who was more than helpful in finding accomodation for him on the isle of Spetsei. Have a look at his site: Mike's site   An advantage of this is being able to plan your own island hopping agenda knowing that accommodation waits for you when you get there.

Hellenic Bookservice's recommended books to the Dodecanese

 E-mail

The Bitter Sea Kalymnos

Faith Warn: Bitter Sea: The Real Story of Greek Sponge Diving ; GRETRA 8vo pp114 inc b/w full page photos; "Most women grabbed a black shawl to wear as they ran to meet the homecoming boats. While the traders    were counting sponges, the wives and mothers of Kalymnos were desperately counting faces... Some went down to the harbour dressed entirely in black, just in case." A terrific little book detailing the lives (and deaths) of those with a perilous occupation written by a woman who has, for the past 5 years, lived among the sponge diving community of Kalymnos. An amazingly priced book of interest to anthropologists, travellers to the Dodecanese group of islands and anybody interested in the dangers of the sea. Wonderful stuff and amazing value. S.J

Rough Guide to the Dodecanese

The Rough guide to the Dodecanese and the East Aegean Islands by Marc Dubin (2nd ed. May '99). Marc Dubin's tireless enthusiasm and expertise drawn from a couple of decades of travel writing (mostly on Greece), make this the best all round guide to the Dodecanese and has the advantage of covering the North East Aegean islands too. Another great guide is the Lonely Planet guide, below. SJ

Lonely Planet Dodecanese

Lonely Planet Guide to Rhodes and the Dodecanese.

Why the Lonely Planet guides insist on going to the exact same places already covered in the Rough Guides is beyond me. (RG cover Rhodes and the Dodecanese, The Ionian Islands, Crete and Greece and so do LP!). Wouldn't it have been better for them to concentrate on island groups such as The Sporadic, The Saronic or the Cyclades? Saying that they are very good guide books but very similar to the Rough Guides, who's guide to Rhodes and the Dodecanese also covers the North East Aegean islands.

Blue Guide to Rhodes

  The Blue Guide to Rhodes and the Dodecanese by Robin Barber The Blue guides tend to deal with the historical side in more detail than any of the other mainstream guides and this one is no exception. However, a great deal of effort has gone into making this guide more useful for the traveller who might have only a slight interest in the historical side, making this Blue guide a viable alternative to other more general guide books. SJ

Greek Island Hopping

Greek Island Hopping by Frewin Poffley. New edition Feb 2002. I used this book for the first time in March 1998, having always believed in the past that its uses would be limited. What a pleasant surprise I was in for. This is a terrific book, not only for the ways and means of getting between islands and mainland ports but as a guide book in its own right. Particularly good for freelance travellers, hopping the Cyclades or Dodecanese. SJ

Cadogan Dodecanese Facaros

The Dodecanese by Dana Facaros et al This is the book for you if you don't plan to stray off the Dodecanese. A shortened version of the book on the Greek Island just covering this group. A really nice book to island hop with.

 

Dodecanese book

Dodecanese Islands. A 64 page, pictorial guide to all of the Dodecanese islands

Rough Guide to the Greek Islands

The Rough Guide to the Greek Islands ed. by Mark Ellingham . Normally a big fan of the Rough guides I can't help but feel that this one is a wee bit superfluous and that you might as well fork out the extra and buy the Rough Guide to Greece and the Greek Islands as this is just that without the mainland pages and NOT a seperate publication also edited by Mark Ellingham. If this one could be replaced by a much more in-depth look at the Cyclades, the Saronic and the Sporadic Islands on top of their existing (and excellent) Ionian and Dodecanese/NEA guides they would have the market cornered. Good for the Cyclades as there are so many of them. If you are giong to the Dodecanese or the NEA, buy the RG specific to those islands and NOT this, is my advise. SJ

Explorer Greek Islands

Explorer Greek Islands by Anthony Sattin and Sylvie Franquet.  A nice well written, pictorial alternative to the "Rough Guide to the Greek islands" (but not the RG to the NEA and Dodecanese), very pretty. I would buy this as a reference book rather than a truly practical guide as it has some fascinating information to all the Greek islands with some great photos to whet the appetite, but like all general guides to the Greek islands it can only say so much on any one. Comes with its own map and deserves inclusion here.

Hetherington Greek Islands

  The Greek Islands: Guide to the Byzantine and medieval buildings and their art, by Paul Hetherington. This will appear on all the island pages as it a)  covers every group and b) it is excellent. There are omissions but that is to be expected and this is an essential read for anybody interested in the Byzantine period and the Orthodox church. Detailed descriptions of over 300 locations of medieval buildings, especially monasteries, found on 47 Greek islands. A wonderful book. SJ

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Flora and Fauna

books can be found by clicking on the triffid

Astypalea (Astypalaia)

It looks and feels Cycladic and is as close to the eastern Cyclades as the western Dodecanese but nevertheless Astypalaia is a Dodecanesean island. This is the quintessential one-village island (if you don't include the little resort of Meltezana) but what a village. One of the prettiest such Hora in the group with a Venetian castle up top. Many people stay in the port of Skala or the oasis-hamlet of Livadia, one bay west of Hora. Beautiful views can be obtained by those brave enough to climb above the island's capital Skala to the castle. Some fine early Christian mosaics, wonderful honey and a waterfall in the far west complete the picture. While very popular with Greeks, Astypalaia has yet to make any inroads into the foreign tourist trade; a recommendation in its own right you might think.

General books to the Dodecanese:

Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable Stelios

Museum:

Astypalaia Archaeological Museum

Sites:

Ancient Cemeteries

Ancient City and Acropolis

Armenochori: Mycenaean cemetery

The Castle

Sites:

Castle of Karababa

Syngairo: Mycenaean Cemetery

Vathy, Ancient Tower and Prehistoric Settlement

Chalki (pronounced, and quite often spelt, Halki)

A tiny limestone speck west of Rhodes, like many of the big isle's infertile satellites, Halki used to make its living from seafaring generally and sponge diving in particular. Halki boasts some excellent tavernas and you can take excursions to the castle and abandoned village at Horio. There is a smattering of pebbly beaches around the coast but the best ones are only accessible by excursion boat. UNESCO declared this island the 'isle of peace and friendship' in 1983 and I'd highly recommend it as a retreat from the hustle and bustle of Rhodes. There is really no mass tourism but this can be a mixed blessing especially in high season as there is not a great deal of accommodation either. If you fancy staying here for a week or two, Laskarina www.laskarina.co.uk has some typically splendid accommodation here.

Books: Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable. Stelios

Museum:

Chalkis Archaeological Museum

General books to the Dodecanese

Kalymnos

A large island with its obligatory castle, Kalymnos was in the past famous for its sponge fishers. As well as a fascinating hinterland, which is well worth exploring, the main port-town of Pothia looks initially rough and ready but the backstreets are in fact pretty elegant and are a nice place to spend a few idle hours/days people-watching. There are not one but two castles just outside Pothia: one Byzantine the other the essential Knights of St. John's, plus there are an astonishing number of small, early Christian churches scattered across the landscape and there is enough trail to keep the walker busy for a few days. Best is the hike from Pothia to Vathy valley, with its citrus orchards and yacht anchorage. If you go on a package tour you are likely to end up at either Myrties or Massouri; opposite the latter of the two is the striking island of Telandos, which has no cars and its own accommodation.

Holiday company: Laskarina come here www.laskarina.co.uk

General books to the Dodecanese

Museum:

Kalymnos Museum


Sites:

Caves at Vathy

Damos, Ancient Settlement

Karpathos

No crusader castles for you here, I'm afraid, but plenty for the independent traveller especially in the foothills. It lies between Crete (with which its music shares some characteristics) and Rhodes and can be reached from either. It is a rugged, rather poorly cultivated island with excellent beaches at Lefkos (west) and all along the east coast with good hiking in the far north where trails are being marked or rehabilitated. There are no real picture-postcard worthy villages except in the north where you can find the "open-air anthropological museum" of Olymbos, with its spectacular ridge-top setting, pastel painted houses and women in traditional dress. Much of this is as genuine as a Masai boma laid on for safari goers, but stay the night and you'll get a different picture. The port town capital has become slightly pricey of late as has Ammopi beach nearby and you may find it preferable to base your holiday round Lefkos or the far north. If you're planning to stay for some time a sturdy vehicle is a must, as the roads are poor and public transport virtually non-existent.

Weather in Karpathos thanks to Yahoo's site.

Holiday company: Freelance Holidays more normally associated with Crete, come here. www.freelance-holidays.co.uk

Sites:

Arkassa: Ancient Acropolis

Vrykounta, Ancient City and Necropolis

General books to the Dodecanese

The Bitter Sea: Sponge Diving in Kalymnos

Faith Warn: Bitter Sea: The Real Story of Greek Sponge Diving ; GRETRA 8vo pp114 inc b/w full page photos; "Most women grabbed a black shawl to wear as they ran to meet the homecoming boats. While the traders    were counting sponges, the wives and mothers of Kalymnos were desperately counting faces... Some went down to the harbour dressed entirely in black, just in case." A terrific little book detailing the lives (and deaths) of those with a perilous occupation written by a woman who has, for the past 5 years, lived among the sponge diving community of Kalymnos. An amazingly priced book of interest to anthropologists, travellers to the Dodecanese group of islands and anybody interested in the dangers of the sea. Wonderful stuff S.J. 

Karpathos book

Karpathos and Kassos: A folklore Paradise.  An 111 page pictorial guide book to the isle of Kos. This is published in Greece and will consequently be cheaper on the island, but if you are anything like me, you will want to buy this before you go 

General books to the Dodecanese

Map:

Karpathos Map

Map of Karpathos and Kassos 1-60,000. The best map of the island, published "with the cooperation of the Hellenic Army Geographical Service"   

Kastellorizo

Catapulted to international fame since its role as the location for the Oscar-winning Italian film 'Mediterraneo' in 1990,Kastellorizo is now a favoured target for independent travellers, not just Italians but romantics of all persuasions, willing to forego a total lack of beaches for the - literally - film-set port and an intimate - or claustrophobic, depending on your point of view - social scale. There are some nice walks inland and to a few coves which, while beachless, furnish wonderful swimming with lots of fish.

Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable. Stelios

General books to the Dodecanese

Museum:

Kastellorizo Archaeological Museum

Site:

Castle of Megisti

Kos

The land of Hippocrates and Asklepios, the cos lettuce and a thriving tourist trade in its own right. A large island with its own airport and enough nice beaches and good archaeological sites to spend a two-week holiday on. There are shoreline hot springs to frolic in; a tall mountain (Dikeos) to climb from Zia village nestling amid a respectable pine and juniper forest. The capital and port, Kos, has some fine Italian art-deco buildings and the modern annex is a planned garden suburb of the 1930's. Kos is quite often used as a stepping-stone for package tourists going to other islands, and is a good base from which to explore islands like Leros, Kalymnos etc.

Weather in Kos thanks to Yahoo's site.

Books:

General books to the Dodecanese

Kos Book

   Kos: The Island of Hippocrates. An 127 page pictorial guide book to the isle of Kos. This is published in Greece and will consequently be cheaper on the island, but if you are anything like me, you will want to buy this before you go

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Walks in Western Kos  By Lance Chilton This 20 page pamphlet  has plenty of walks for you to enjoy. Written by an expert in such things, it is a bit dear, but is worth every penny.

Ancient Cos by Susan Sherwin White. If you have a deep desire to study the history of Kos from the Dorian settlement to the imperial period, this might be the book for you, though it is very expensive.

General books to the Dodecanese

Map

Kos map

Map of Kos 1-60,000. The best map of the island, published "with the cooperation of the Hellenic Army Geographical Service"  

Museum:

Kos Archaeological Museum

Sites:
Agios Stephanos, Early Christian Basilicas

Area of Limenas and the Ancient Agora

Asklepieion

Castle of Neratzia

West archaeological site

Leros

Leros earned itself a rather bad reputation in Britain in the 1980's (it already had one in Greece) when a newspaper report and subsequent television documentary highlighted maltreatment of inpatients at the hospital for the mentally ill. I can report that by 1994 the situation appeared to have improved immeasurably. Try not to let this put you off. Everybody I know who has been to Leros, including myself, loved it. The main harbour, Lakki, looks like something out of a time warp and I would suggest you see it before its art deco facade crumbles beyond repair. On the east side of the island, from Vromolithos to Ayia Marina (which has little accommodation but bags of good ouzeries and tavernas) are some nice beaches, lovely villages with great restaurants and a magnificent castle overlooking the Platanos. Alinda is worth seeing for its allied war cemetery, beautifully tended and extremely moving - it also has a reasonable beach.

Holiday company: Laskarina come here and Andrew recommends 'Castle Vigla' www.laskarina.co.uk

Leros

LINK:    An excellent site on the island of Leros, press it and see: LEROS.ORG

General books to the Dodecanese

Nothing specific springs to mind. Let me know if you come across anything suitable. Stelios

Sites:

Castle of Panteli

Xerokampos: Ancient Acropolis

Lipsi

An island for those who wish to get away from it all, Lipsi is just far enough off the beaten track to remain relatively unspoilt but with an astonishing number of tavernas for its size. It is close enough to Leros and to Patmos for those islands to be accessible for day trips and despite its growing repute Lipsi is still a good retreat.

Holiday company Laskarina come here www.laskarina.co.uk

General books to the Dodecanese

Nissyros

A volcanic island located in between Kos and Tilos, Nissyros, almost perfectly round in shape, is extraordinarily fertile despite there being no water there; something to do with water retention within the volcanic soil. This is one of Markos' faves. Enjoy watching the day-trippers come and, more importantly, go off on their trip to see the volcano, leaving the rest of us to enjoy the three villages, walks between them and the very few beaches. Snobbery aside, when you grow to love an island that's the way you tend to feel about people who just come over for a couple of hours in a seen it/done it/ticked it off kinda way. Nikia, with a unique round square (oxymoronic but true), overlooks the huge caldera from the east. Emborio, all but abandoned and being slowly bought up by outsiders, peers in from the north while the yachts call in at Pali port, where the Emboriots all went to. The main port and capital, Mandraki, with most of the limited accommodation, is a delightful labyrinth resounding to the crash of waves on one side and has some tasty tavernas (not the obvious ones catering to the trippers) and locally oriented nightlife. Also knight-life, in the form of the great castle overawing Langadaki district, its houses sadly shattered by earthquakes in 1996 and 1997 and awaiting repair. But the best castle - and view - is 15 minutes walk south at Paleokastro (old castle) a rare classical-era citadel.

General books to the Dodecanese

Patmos

Patmos is to the Orthodox Church what Delos was to the ancient Greeks or Athos is to the mainland. It was here that St John wrote his book of revelations in the late 1st century AD. Magnificent churches, icons and the 11th century monastery of St John the Theologian make Patmos a hugely important stop for Christian pilgrims the world over. Patmos overall, with its striking volcanic landscape, excellent beaches and picturesque main village, is no austere Aegean Athos; outbreaks of nude bathing have recently been detected (by whom, I know not!) at the remotest bay away from monkish scrutiny. Because there is no airport, day-trips of all sorts tend to impart the feeling of mass tourism: hydrofoils full from Kos and Rhodes, giant cruise ships which hang-about until midnight, as well as caiques from nearby Samos. You really need to spend the night to get the measure of the place; like Paros it's an island with a widely varied public from wealthy merchant bankers with restored houses in Hora to scruffy backpackers like ourselves. The food, especially at certain remote beach tavernas, is good, the nightlife (again, despite monkish frowns) adequate and the monastery itself - well, it's a revelation.

Books

Patmos by Tom Stone   Available on the island, this is the best guide to the island written by a man who lived there for ten years 

Patmos by Davaras . A guide available on the island, though the Hellenic stock it too. Some pictures, some text and a small map. Order this Book

Patmos: Treasures of the Monastery by A Kominis . This is a beautiful book, lavishly illustrated with colour photographs. It comes in it's own sturdy slip-case and is a must for anybody deeply interested in the theological side of the island which cannot be overstated.

Other books

Sites:

Castelli: Hellenistic fortification

Monestary:

Monastery of Agios Ioannis Theologos

Link:

Patmos

A nice site to the island of Patmos can be found here

Rhodes

'Do it in Rhodes, Darling' sez the T-shirt and that's the least rude of the fifty examples on sale in the dozen or so resorts of this large, sandy, diamond-shaped, sun-drenched isle, one of the crown jewels of Greek tourism. The capital, Rhodes town (or Chora), has a medieval city within it and is well worth visiting, even if you are based on one of the other southern Dodecanese islands like Symi or Chalki. Lindos, halfway down the east coast, runs a close second in the tourist stakes with its ancient citadel wrapped up in yet another castle enfolded in turn by a dazzling cuboid village. Rhodes has fine frescoed churches at Asklipio and Tharri, not to mention one of the best island museums, housed in the restored palace of the Knights' Grand Masters. Yes, it's expensive and you can't get a room on spec to save your life in summer (which runs into September). The taxi drivers are in desperate need of lessons in the most basic courtesy. The other drivers are just insane (I know, one ran a stop sign and piled into me!). But Rhodes can be a magical island where the people are still friendly, the food good and the landscape still (partly) forested. The "Colossus of Rhodes' was one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

Weather in Rhodes thanks to Yahoo's site.

General books to the Dodecanese

Reflections on a Marine Venus

Reflections on a Marine Venus by Laurence Durrell. You either love Durrell's novels or you hate them. This however is one of the four travel books to Greece he wrote and there is absolutely no denying the quality of his penmanship. Subtitled: A companion to the Landscape of Rhodes

Landscapes of Rhodes by Noel Rochford An excellent book for walks, car tours and picnics, this book has its own fold-out map and is part of the Sunflower Series. Out of Print, sorry.

Berlitz Guide to Rhodes . For those staying on the island for a short time or maybe for people who want to relax on the island but at the same time want to know what's out there. Very handy little guidebooks these.

Map

Rhodes Map

Map of Rhodes 1-100,000. The best map of the island, published "with the cooperation of the Hellenic Army Geographical Service"  

Museums:

Aquarium of Rhodes

Decorative Arts Museum of Rhodes

Ialyssos

Kameiros

Palace of the Grand Magister

Rhodes Archaeological Museum

Rhodes Municipal Gallery

Sites:

Agios Ioannis: ancient cemetery

Ancient Acropolis

Ancient Cemetery

Ancient Fortification Walls

Korakonero: Ancient Cemetery

Korakonero :Graves and Open-Air Sanctuary

Hellenistic Fortification

Lindos

Rhodini

Symi (Simi)

One of the most beautiful harbours of any of the Greek islands, so get that camera ready as the ferry rounds the bay. Symi supplied sponges to the Ottoman Empire and was immune from taxes because of it. As a consequence, many Symites became wealthy and the architecture of Symi town, though a little run down in parts, bears testimony to this. Known as the Hydra of the Dodecanese, due to its achingly picturesque port, which has passengers desperately searching for their cameras as the ferry rounds the point of Yialos bay. The port is split into two; Yialos being the bottom part and Horio the upper part reached by climbing the 87 million (or so) steps through the centre of town. Stopping, do catch your breath and buy herbs from Mrs Maria - if you're travelling with Laskarina be prepared for some great stories involving this particular lady - finally reaching the top where there is an absolutely lovely bar with views out to sea run by a charming Greek couple. For those unwilling or unable to go these lengths for a drink, Andrew and Tricia recommend any of the bars at the bottom of the stairs and have a certain fondness for the Vapori bar. Symi does not boast particularly great beaches, but if you follow the harbour round to its east passing the town beach, there is a very decent, albeit small, beach about half-a-mile out. The day trippers, of which you may well be one, come in their hundreds but we would definitely recommend a stay as would Andrew who got engaged to his lovely wife Trish here while holidaying with Laskarina holidays www.laskarina.co.uk

Link

Symi site

This is an excellent site to the island of Symi

NOT AVAILABLE FROM US UNFORTUNATELY

An OUT OF PRINT book is Bus Stop Symi by William Travis. Should you come across a copy grab it. Try www.abebooks.com though they are always too expensive for us to resell, you may find a copy for yourself as these are not that rare, just unorderable. We do occasionally get these, so it may be worth ringing us on 020 7267 9499

Bus Stop Symi

Just in case you are looking for a copy, this is what it looks like, so you'll recognise it. It was first published by "Rapp and Whitting" but the second edition is far more common and was published by "The Readers Union". I hope this info helps you trace a copy as it is a very good read indeed.SJ

Symi book

Symi- Sentinel of the Greek Archipelago A nice pictorial book 77 pages covering the history and current features of this beautiful island

Lance Chilton Walks in Symi

Walks on Symi By Lance Chilton This 40 page pamphlet comes with a map and has plenty of walks for you to enjoy. Written by an expert in such things, it is a bit dear, but is worth every penny.

The Bitter Sea Kalymnos

Faith Warn: Bitter Sea: The Real Story of Greek Sponge Diving ;This is set on Kalymnos but could equally apply to Symi, who's wealth was accrued due to its expert sponge divers and the tax breaks granted by the Ottoman Empire for the absorbent creatures.

General books to the Dodecanese

Museums:

Symi Archaeological Museum

Symi Municipal Nautical Folklore Museum

Sites:

Ancient Acropolis

Byzantine Castle

Tilos

Another lovely little island which is the remotest (with the exception of Kastellorizo) and possibly the most idyllic of the Dodecanese entirely deserving at least a week's stay. There are seven (count 'em) castles of the crusader knights, several fine beaches (many accessible only by walking - a prime activity here) enough water for farming (no longer pursued except at Eristos with its citrus) but curiously a dirth of trees. Add two hilltop villages (one, Mikro Horio, abandoned, but one suspects not for long) and an intriguingly sited monastery and you have all the ingredients of success among a growing cognoscenti. Most of them stay at Livadia, the main port but not a real village, and many are members of the group know as 'Friends of Tilos' (FOTA) which agitates for some sort of preservation ethic in the face of some islanders' ambition to bulldoze and build over every flat inch of the place plus some hillside! Newspaper reports from Rhodes claim that FOTA are trying to force locals to take a step back in time, go and see for yourself. You won't remain neutral.

General books to the Dodecanese

Map of Tilos: Baz Ward produces a map for FOTA  infinitely better than the usual suspects.

Sites:

Ancient Acropolis

Ancient settlement

Byzantine castle

Caves at Charkadio

LINK

Tilos site

Brian and Val's Tilos pages. This a great site with far more to it than just photos. My kind'a site, though not exactly my sort of music....they don't call me Baching for nothing ;-) SJ